When we got to Muhu Island, we realised how small it is… but that it is large enough that you really need a car to get around. So, we hired a guide, Ella. And she was great. She took us around the island to see the scenery and many contrasts that explain the mixes of culture that the Estonias have: we saw a Lutheran church (below) and a Russian orthodox church (the two main religions of Estonia), a village fashioned from the Russian style (one main road down the middle with houses on both sides and small gardens) and a more Estonian-styled village (larger plots of land and a mishmash of streets, instead of a main road). We were taken to the north of the island, which is known for its views and its juniper bushes… and some secret caves that we weren’t able to find. But look at the water in the distance… that’s Caribbean blue. It was a gorgeous day, and you could see out to the other islands (apparently there are about 1000 islands in Estonia over all!)
Then, for the weirder part of the tour… to the ostrich farm. This is Muhu’s only ostrich farm (which provides meat, skin and feathers for different shops and restaurants throughout Estonia) which houses Estonia’s only two zebras. Yup. So random. After this, we headed off the island… during the summer, there are several good places to go for lunch on Muhu, but as it was only April, these restaurants were still all shut. We went to the next island over, Saaremaa, to the town of Orissare, where we found Cafe Soneburg.
A very low-key place, with couches and a mishmash of different chairs. You order at the counter, and the food comes… well, when it comes. I ordered the pork schnitzel, which was great. It was a bit overfried (see the colour) but they had put lemon zest into the friture, which gave it a fresh, bright taste.
And the potato salad? I hate potato salad. In the first place, I’m not a big fan of boiled potatoes, but add a creamy sauce and I’m miserable. But this one was delicious. A light dressing and lots of herbs… it was perfect!